Published on
Years ago, when I first shared this demonstration, my intention was to give potters a glimpse into the way I teach porcelain. Since then, my teaching has grown into full online courses, national and international hands-on workshops, workshops in my own studio, and demonstrations—all supported by many more years of working with, teaching, and researching porcelain. 

Throughout those years, my belief that successful work with porcelain begins with an understanding of the medium has been reinforced by my success with potters around the world. Understanding what the clay is doing and why it behaves the way it does has opened many doors for potters who tried to work with porcelain but struggled to succeed.
The method I use for throwing tall bottles has been consistently successful. Rather than simply pulling the clay upward and then trying to shape the form, I use the movement of the clay, the positioning of my hands and arms, and controlled pressure to gradually develop the bottle.
The accompanying video shows the process in motion. The steps below explain more of what I am doing and, importantly, why I am doing it.
Throwing a Tall Spouted Porcelain Bottle: Step by Step
1. Preparing and Opening the Clay

Prepare your porcelain carefully before you begin. Thorough wedging helps distribute the moisture evenly through the clay, which becomes particularly important when throwing a tall form.
When I center the clay, I begin by creating a dome. The width of this dome already gives me an indication of how wide the bottom of the finished bottle will be.
Once the clay is centered, I open it while keeping a rounded curve in the bottom. This rounded interior gives me the beginning of the flowing curve that I want to carry through the finished form.
Picture

Centering porcelain clay with the coning technique

Picture

Once the clay is well centered, I open it while keeping the interior shape rounded.

Picture

Make a dent at the base to begin a clay wall that can be pushed upward.


2. Raising the Wall: Push Rather Than Pull

Once the clay is opened, I push a slight dent into the side at the bottom of the pot. This gives me a wall of clay that I can begin moving upward.
I think of this movement as pushing rather than pulling the clay. Notice the direction of my arm as I move the clay upward. This helps me keep the cylinder narrow and encourages the clay to move upward rather than flare outward.
As I continue, I push the wave of clay all the way to the top. I then strengthen the rim by gently compressing the clay back into the wall. I normally repeat this process several times as the form gains height.
With porcelain, I work sparingly with water. Porcelain quickly becomes softer as it ​​absorbs water, and a water-saturated wall loses its integrity and can easily collapse.
Picture

Beginning the first lift. I push the clay upward.

Picture

My arm and elbow are in a vertical position. I continue moving the clay wave all the way to the rim while keeping the cylinder narrow.

3. Developing the Belly

Once I have enough height, I begin to develop the belly of the bottle. I leave the wall thick enough at this stage so that there is enough clay to expand into the curve without weakening the form.
While making the cylinder, my hands are more or less level with each other on the inside and outside. As I begin developing the belly, their positions shift. My non-dominant hand leads on the outside, slightly above my dominant hand, which pushes from the inside. The outside hand supports and controls the developing curve while the inside hand pushes the wall outward and continues moving the clay upward.
The continuous curve develops gradually, creating the volume of the bottle while maintaining enough strength in the wall for the next stage. I keep the extra clay at the base because it supports the form and helps prevent it from collapsing.
To begin closing the form, the roles of my hands gradually change. The exterior, non-dominant hand takes on a stronger role, pushing the clay inward, while the dominant hand on the inside becomes more supportive. Eventually, the opening becomes too small for my inside hand and both hands begin collaring the clay from the outside.
As the opening narrows, the clay at the rim becomes thicker again. This is the clay I will use to form the spout.


Picture

The porcelain myth says that the clay must be thrown fast. In reality, using less water, greater precision and a slower throwing speed gives me more control

Picture

Refining the rim before the spout is formed makes the process easier.

Picture

Hesitation while collaring porcelain—or any clay body—can cause the form to collapse.

4. Forming the Spout

As I continue collaring, the opening becomes smaller and the clay at the top becomes thicker. I now have enough thickness at the rim to begin forming the spout.
At this stage, the bottle has already been worked considerably, and the clay for the spout may be very soft, so there is not much room to use more water. I use a firm but gentle touch and try to work only with the slip that has already accumulated. Unnecessary pressure on the form at this stage can lead to collapse.
Using a collaring action with just my fingertips, I begin pushing the gathered clay upward to create the spout. As the spout becomes narrower, I use my pinkies to guide the clay upward while I continue shaping it. At the same time, I pay attention to the transition between the body and the spout, allowing the curve to flow naturally and lead the eye upward.
If necessary, I cut the rim with a sharp tool to create a clean, even opening.

Picture

Form the spout between fingers.

Picture

Keep the touch light and use only fingers to almost "dance" over the clay.

Picture

The pinky or a pencil is used to pull the spout taller.

Picture

Refining the spout to make it one continuous flowing form.

5. Refining and Evaluating the Complete Form

Now that the bottle and spout are formed, it is time to stand back and observe the piece from a distance. I look to see whether the eye can flow naturally and uninterrupted over the form—from the base, through the belly and shoulder, and upward into the spout.

A soft silicone kidney removes excess slip and throwing ridges and helps me refine the surface. By bending the kidney slightly between my fingers, I allow it to follow the curve rather than alter the form.

The extra clay at the base has served this far to support the bottle, but now I need to remember the rounded interior space that I established when preparing and opening the form. I try to keep the clay walls as even as possible. The interior space dictates what the form can finally become on the exterior. I can therefore begin removing the excess clay at the base, revealing more of the complete silhouette while also preparing the bottle for trimming and the final refinement of the form.
At this point, I am looking at the relationship between all the parts of the form—the base, belly, shoulder and spout. Are the different parts balanced? Is the bottle pleasing to the eye? Does the eye move naturally through the form? The tools are no longer simply helping me throw the clay; they are helping me refine the visual flow of the finished form.

Picture

The silicone kidney is used to smooth of any access slip and to smooth the walls.

Picture

I use only blunt tools on her plaster bat when she removes the clay at the base that previously kept the pot in place.

Picture

The base gets special attention where the extra clay was removed to create an elegant base.

Picture

The soft Mudtool kidney is used to refine the form.

The bottle is not finished when the throwing is complete. Trimming and refining the form will be the next stage. In the meantime, you can explore some of my other articles and demonstrations about trimming clay and porcelain.

​Links:

Trimming Clay Category



Published on
Antoinette  with potters who are attending a hands-on porcelain workshop her Mississippi studio.

Antoinette is having a discussion with Nancy Jones, one of the workshop participants, while the other potters are working.

​Have you heard potters talking about porcelain as if it is the hardest thing in the world to master? Just a few days ago, I saw a fairly renowned potter making the comment that porcelain is “difficult to work with.” I immediately contradicted the potter by telling him that my grandchildren worked with porcelain from the first day they started playing in my studio.
Of course, that is an oversimplification, because everything these, and the many other children who found their way through my studio made was either recycled, or, if it did make it through the kiln, it went through my hands first.

Learning to Understand the Clay Medium

​If this potter had said that porcelain is a different medium and that anyone who wants to work with it must first understand how it differs from other types of clay, I would have agreed.
Many potters have tried to work with this diva and given up when they discovered that what goes into the kiln may come out as something very different. Then there are the potters who work with the clay successfully but work with it as if it is a regular stoneware clay body.
Antoinette is showing an altered porcelain pot and how she begin the first outlining, before carving the detail.

Altering and the carving of a wheel thrown porcelain pot.

What You’ll discover During the Week

​During a week-long workshop in my studio, we begin with an informal visit around some porcelain works that I have collected over the years. We discuss and share some experiences and simply get to know each other. Throughout the week, we use our discussions to build on each potter’s expectations.
In the past, I have had potters with minimal experience with porcelain, but I have also had some with many years of experience. To cater to these potters in a way that allows both to experience a good week of learning is easier than it may sound, because I connect individually with each one and meet them at the level where they are.
Normally, when I get experienced potters, they are ready to push their own limits, but they do not know how. Too often, potters do not ask the “why” questions—something that I had to learn the hard way.
My struggles with porcelain when I started pushing its limits put me in a position where I can bring the knowledge required to my students in a short week of intensive work.
The beauty is that most potters who leave by Saturday have learned way more than they expected, because they learned from each other too. 

Wheel Throwing and Handbuilding with Porcelain

​Normally I have some potters that prefer to hand-build and others that want to work on the wheel. Interestingly enough as the week progress, some potters want to switch and try the opposite techniques. My philosophy is that techniques and styles should never be boxed in. Working on both the wheel and hand-building, open so many more possibilities for each potter and I love that! See, during a week there are opportunities to learn technique, but also to expand our horizons with ideas. Afterall, ceramic art is not just a form of creating; it is a form of communication. When we mastered the craft, we can begin to communicate through it.  
 

Trimming Altering, Carving, and Refining

​Altering porcelain is a relatively new concept that became more widely practiced in the 20th century. It requires some knowledge of the behavior of the clay. Prior to that porcelain was considered a practical clay body, used for functional objects. 
 
Simple formed porcelain pots are beautiful, especially when it is translucent and when form and shape is well executed. For that reason, we pay attention to good form, trimming and finishing before we consider altering. From there the carving and refinement follow. By the end of the week each potter take at least one well designed piece of art back home.
 
Mastering these techniques can become quite emotional for some potters when they realize creating beautiful translucent porcelain objects are within reach! It gives them tools with which they can develop an individualistic style, and it connects with the idea of communicating through the work. Afterall a potters voice is just as strong as that of a sculptor or painting artist. 
Antoinette shows how she altered the rim of a large, shallow bowl and how she carves into the clay and refine it.

Altering and carving a large, shallow porcelain bowl.

Learning to Recognize and Solve Porcelain Problems

​There are not many ceramic studios that offer porcelain classes; even in colleges opportunities to learn about porcelain are limited. Potters told me before that the instructors are not always equip to teach them to work with porcelain. They are sometimes allowed to work with the material, but then they have to work things out on their own and it is not always successful. During my porcelain classes we make a deep dive into as many of the problems as possible. Potters make those mistakes in the workshop and the whole group learn from that and if we miss something, I encourage my students to stay in touch and share their problems via email. There is always a solution. The key however is that they learn to see the mistake as it happens and obtain the tools to avoid them in future. 

Who Is This Workshop For?

​If you’re an experienced porcelain potter who want to learn to push your own limits, this class is for you. Maybe you wanted to get your hands in porcelain clay all your life, but you’ve been told that it is too hard; I am sure I will be able to break that fear and all the other myths about porcelain that is out there. Even early beginner potters that know early on that they would want to work with the medium will find this workshop suitable, because I address the most basic principles, something that is often overlooked in a regular pottery class. Also; because the group is small, I can work with each student individually. 

Why Learn Porcelain in a Small Hands-On Group?

With their pots finished and through the bisque fire the group have more questions and comments to make about their progress

This image was taken by the end of the workshop when the group were discussing the path forward and Antoinette was answering questions.

​Potters attending my workshops comes mostly from across the United States, however I had a few who came from other countries too. Despite the intense training and high volume of information, my workshops are relaxed and potters find themselves forgetting about the world and its problems. Because it is a small group setting, they get to know each other, and I’ve seen several becoming friends. This atmosphere allow potters give their opinions, about the work and to freely ask questions 

October 18–24, 2026: A Week to Discover, Develop and Improve Your Skills with Porcelain

​I love teaching porcelain workshops.
The knowledge, techniques, and understanding of the medium resonate differently with each person and give them an opportunity to grow in their art. I’ve seen firsthand how potters discover the techniques that suit their style the best.
The love of throwing porcelain is always there, but as they discover that handbuilding, altering, or carving are complementary techniques, excitement for all the different possibilities happens.
Some will finally understand why their porcelain has been giving them problems. And some will simply discover that porcelain isn't as intimidating as they had been told.
For me, that is what a workshop is about—not just making pots for a week, but opening the door to possibilities.
On October 18–24, 2026, I invite you to join me in my studio in Saltillo, Mississippi, for a weeklong hands on workshop. We will be working, learning, experimenting, asking questions, making mistakes, solving problems, and discovering what porcelain can become in your hands.
Interested in joining me in Mississippi?